The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
by Eric J. Hörst

(Price: $16.95, Pages: 224, Release: Dec. 2002)

*    50 Figures & Charts     *     68 Instructional Training Photos    *

Chapter 1 - An Overview of Training for Climbing
History of Training for Climbing, Genetics & Climbing Performance, Limits to Climbing Performance, The Power of the SAID Principle

Chapter 2 - Self-Assessment & Goal Setting
Self-Assessment, The Cycle of Improvement: Goal Setting, Taking Action & Making Course Corrections

Chapter 3 - Mental Training
Mental Wings Strategies, Controlling Your Emotions, Dealing with Fear, Relaxation Training & Centering, The ANSWER Sequence, Visualization, Enhancing Focus

Chapter 4 - Training Skill & Strategy
Overview of Motor Learning, Keys to Effective Practice, Smart Training Drills for Enhanced Learning of Skills, Mental Wings Strategies for Maximizing Technique and Strategy

Chapter 5 - Theory & Methodology of Strength Training
Primer on Exercise Physiology, Overview of Training Principles, Methods of Training: Maximum Strength, Anaerobic Endurance (Power Endurance), Endurance/Stamina, Complex Training

Chapter 6 - Strength & Conditioning Exercises
Optimizing Body Composition, Flexibility Training, Sport-Specific Training (fingers/forearms, arms, lock-off, power, endurance, HIT, System & Campus Training, and much much more!), Training Core Muscles, Antagonist Muscle Training, Aerobic Training

Chapter 7 - Personal Training Programs
Keys to an Effective Training Program, Structuring Your Workout Schedule, Targeting Your Favorite Type of Climbing (bouldering, sport, multipitch, big wall, alpine), Crafting an Effective Personal Training Program (Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced), Extra Training Tips for Female Climbers, Overview of Training for Juniors' Climbers

Chapter 8 - Performance Nutrition
Overview of Macronutrients (protein, fat, carbohydrate), Glycemic Index, Micronutrients (vitamins & minerals), Sports Supplements (protein powder, vitamins, creatine, sports drinks, energy bars)

Chapter 9 - Accelerating Recovery
Overview of Fatigue & Recovery, Causes of Fatigue, Three Recovery Periods, Accelerating Short-term Recovery (while climbing), Accelerating Medium-term Recovery (between climbs), Accelerating Long-term Recovery (between days of climbing and workouts)

Chapter 10 - Injury Treatment & Prevention
Overview of Injury Types and Frequency, Common Injuries and Treatments: Fingers, Elbows, Shoulders, and Knees; Taping for Injuries, Preventing Injuries

Appendices: Yearly Training Chart (blank), Self-Assessment Comments & Tips, Fitness Evaluation

Research References, Glossary of Terms, Reading List, Detailed Index

Order a signed copy from the author here >>

 

Book Reviews

Covering everything from mental exercises to injury prevention to nutrition to goal-specific workouts, Training for Climbing is a must-read for climbers of any ability who are looking to take their performance to the next level.
--Climbing Magazine

Eric Hörst has taken complex scientific training concepts and integrated these with contemporary research on climbing to produce a very readable and useful training guide. This book will lead the climber to new heights of performance.
--Phillip B. Watts, Ph.D., Exercise Physiologist & Climbing Researcher, Northern Michigan University

Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you're just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you'll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available. Better yet, it's presented in a clean and easily understandable format, with inspiring and illustrative photos.
--Mark Eller, Associate Editor, Rock & Ice magazine

Hörst is uniquely positioned to bring current methods in sports psychology and exercise science to the world of climbing, and he has hit the mark in superb style! If you are passionate about climbing and getting better, Training for Climbing will become your dog-eared companion!
--Richard K. Fleming, Ph.D., Assistant Professor of Psychology, University of Massachusetts Medical School

With comprehensive textbook-like descriptions of nutrition, recovery, weight training, and structured workouts, Training for Climbing is a crucial addition to your climbing library. Use this book to make 5.13 a reality instead of just a dream.
--Michelle Hurni, Author of Coaching Climbing

EDITORIAL PREVIEW:
Highly-entertaining, idea-packed, and loaded with practical techniques and strategies, Training for Climbing presents a distillation of twenty-five years of experience and experimentation by accomplished veteran climber, renowned author, and performance coach, Eric J. Hörst.

In this follow-up to his popular Flash Training, Hörst presents a unique synthesis of leading-edge strength training methods, tried-and-true practice strategies, and powerful mental training techniques that will empower you to climb better--regardless of your current ability.

Training for Climbing begins with a logical progression of self-analysis and goal setting, then takes an in-depth look at the vital mental and technical skills that separate the best from the rest. In three breakthrough chapters on sport-specific strength training, the author presents the principles of effective training, followed by dozens of exercises, as well as sample personalized training programs for climbers of all ability. He concludes with expert advice on the often-overlooked subjects of performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and the prevention and treatment of climbing injuries.

Let Hörst's passion for climbing and his exploration of the boundaries of personal performance help you achieve your personal best!

 
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