| The
Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
by Eric J. Hörst
(Price:
$16.95, Pages: 224, Release: Dec. 2002)
* 50 Figures & Charts *
68 Instructional Training Photos *
Chapter
1 - An Overview of Training for Climbing
History of Training for Climbing, Genetics & Climbing
Performance, Limits to Climbing Performance, The Power of
the SAID Principle
Chapter
2 - Self-Assessment & Goal Setting
Self-Assessment, The Cycle of Improvement: Goal Setting, Taking
Action & Making Course Corrections
Chapter
3 - Mental Training
Mental Wings Strategies, Controlling Your Emotions, Dealing
with Fear, Relaxation Training & Centering, The ANSWER
Sequence, Visualization, Enhancing Focus
Chapter
4 - Training Skill & Strategy
Overview of Motor Learning, Keys to Effective Practice, Smart
Training Drills for Enhanced Learning of Skills, Mental Wings
Strategies for Maximizing Technique and Strategy
Chapter
5 - Theory & Methodology of Strength Training
Primer on Exercise Physiology, Overview of Training Principles,
Methods of Training: Maximum Strength, Anaerobic Endurance
(Power Endurance), Endurance/Stamina, Complex Training
Chapter
6 - Strength & Conditioning Exercises
Optimizing Body Composition, Flexibility Training, Sport-Specific
Training (fingers/forearms, arms, lock-off, power, endurance,
HIT, System & Campus Training, and much much more!), Training
Core Muscles, Antagonist Muscle Training, Aerobic Training
Chapter
7 - Personal Training Programs
Keys to an Effective Training Program, Structuring Your Workout
Schedule, Targeting Your Favorite Type of Climbing (bouldering,
sport, multipitch, big wall, alpine), Crafting an Effective
Personal Training Program (Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced),
Extra Training Tips for Female Climbers, Overview of Training
for Juniors' Climbers
Chapter
8 - Performance Nutrition
Overview of Macronutrients (protein, fat, carbohydrate), Glycemic
Index, Micronutrients (vitamins & minerals), Sports Supplements
(protein powder, vitamins, creatine, sports drinks, energy
bars)
Chapter
9 - Accelerating Recovery
Overview of Fatigue & Recovery, Causes of Fatigue, Three
Recovery Periods, Accelerating Short-term Recovery (while
climbing), Accelerating Medium-term Recovery (between climbs),
Accelerating Long-term Recovery (between days of climbing
and workouts)
Chapter
10 - Injury Treatment & Prevention
Overview of Injury Types and Frequency, Common Injuries and
Treatments: Fingers, Elbows, Shoulders, and Knees; Taping
for Injuries, Preventing Injuries
Appendices:
Yearly Training Chart (blank), Self-Assessment Comments &
Tips, Fitness Evaluation
Research
References, Glossary of Terms, Reading List, Detailed Index
Order
a signed copy from the author here >>
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Book
Reviews
Covering
everything from mental exercises to injury prevention to nutrition
to goal-specific workouts, Training for Climbing is a must-read
for climbers of any ability who are looking to take their
performance to the next level.
--Climbing
Magazine
Eric Hörst has
taken complex scientific training concepts and integrated
these with contemporary research on climbing to produce a
very readable and useful training guide. This book will lead
the climber to new heights of performance.
--Phillip
B. Watts, Ph.D., Exercise Physiologist & Climbing Researcher,
Northern Michigan University
Training
for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you're just starting
out or already ticking 5.13, you'll find valuable information
here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and
up-to-date training guide available. Better yet, it's presented
in a clean and easily understandable format, with inspiring
and illustrative photos.
--Mark
Eller, Associate Editor, Rock & Ice magazine
Hörst
is uniquely positioned to bring current methods in sports
psychology and exercise science to the world of climbing,
and he has hit the mark in superb style! If you are passionate
about climbing and getting better, Training for Climbing will
become your dog-eared companion!
--Richard
K. Fleming, Ph.D., Assistant Professor of Psychology, University
of Massachusetts Medical School
With
comprehensive textbook-like descriptions of nutrition, recovery,
weight training, and structured workouts, Training for Climbing
is a crucial addition to your climbing library. Use this book
to make 5.13 a reality instead of just a dream.
--Michelle
Hurni, Author of Coaching Climbing
EDITORIAL
PREVIEW:
Highly-entertaining, idea-packed, and loaded with practical
techniques and strategies, Training for Climbing presents
a distillation of twenty-five years of experience and experimentation
by accomplished veteran climber, renowned author, and performance
coach, Eric J. Hörst.
In
this follow-up to his popular Flash Training, Hörst presents
a unique synthesis of leading-edge strength training methods,
tried-and-true practice strategies, and powerful mental training
techniques that will empower you to climb better--regardless
of your current ability.
Training
for Climbing begins with a logical progression of self-analysis
and goal setting, then takes an in-depth look at the vital
mental and technical skills that separate the best from the
rest. In three breakthrough chapters on sport-specific strength
training, the author presents the principles of effective
training, followed by dozens of exercises, as well as sample
personalized training programs for climbers of all ability.
He concludes with expert advice on the often-overlooked subjects
of performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and the prevention
and treatment of climbing injuries.
Let
Hörst's passion for climbing and his exploration of the boundaries
of personal performance help you achieve your personal best!
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