I have forfeited quite a few days at the crags in order to
write my books and web articles, record podcasts, and design training products (and get pumped
testing them on my home wall!), the volumes of positive feedback
from good folks around the world is very gratifying. I place
high value on each comment I receive--thank you! I try to
reply to each email, although it may often take a week or
here to ask Eric a question, send a comment or just to
I would like to thank everyone who has purchased my books
and written to me from across the United States, Canada, Mexico,
Brazil, Argentina, Guatemala, Venezuela, Chile, Ecuador, Peru, Great
Britian, Ireland, Germany, France, Luxembourg, Switzerland,
Austria, Italy, Malta, Spain, Portugal, Croatia, Greece, Israel,
Hungary, Turkey, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Lithuania, Iceland,
Scotland, Belgium, Czech Republic, Slovenia, Russia, Uzbekistan, Poland,
Romania, Ukraine, Netherlands, South Africa, Japan, China,
Singapore, Iran, India, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Bahamas, Philippines, Indonesia,
Korea, Thailand, New Zealand, and Australia.
is just a small selection of reader feedback supporting my
TFC philosophy and expressing the same passion for climbing as you likely possess. I hope you'll find them
as inspiring as I do!
on a belay ledge, Fisher Towers, UT. Courtesy of EricMcCallister.com
Congratulations on your new books, one of which is on my nightstand right now! I not only appreciate the technical info, but also the positive way you couch everything for all climbers of all abilities and the respect for the visionaries of the past (Gill, Gullich, Skinner, etc.).
Marc (Paris, France):
Thank you heaps for the great service! Your books are gold!
Thanks so much for doing what you do. I am constantly learning new things through your websiteÖand your podcasts are AWESOME!
Thanks for writing
Training for Climbing--itīs amazing! Greetings from a passionate spanish climber!
I've just read your book Conditioning for Climbing. I must say it basically covers all the essential knowledge every climber will need. Excellent work!
I am a physical educator, climber, and climbing researcher, and I found your books to be a safe harbor. Great info and a professional approach make them the best resource of information. Thanks you very much!
Your book, Conditioning for Climbers, is a winner. I received it on Monday, have skimmed the entire volume, read several chapters, and will read the rest in the next few days. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thank you for all the time and energy spent researching training. I purchased Training for Climbing when it first came out and within a year I was climbing 2 grades harder. We call your book the "clible"!
Paul (Ann Arbor, Michigan):
Having never climbed, at age 26 I dove into climbing and thanks to your book, Training for Climbing, I lost 15 lbs and got myself to 5.10's in 4 short months. I sincerely appreciate the specific attention you give to mental training and what I like to call 'enlightened climbing'. Your writing is beautifully clear.
It's been nearly 3 years since I was in contact with you, but I came across my copy of Training for Climbing just the other day, and I realised it played a rather pivotal role in my climbing life. Three years ago I emailed you asking for advice, which you very kindly gave, and it served as inspiration for me. Thanks again!
Your new book is fantastic! Excellent quality as always, and packed with great information for all levels.
The training knowledge I have gained from all your books has allowed me to get back into the sport after time off and maximized my training efforts with two kids and a 60+ week job. I appreciate all you have contributed to the sport.
Hey Eric, Just wanted to say thanks for your book Training for Climbing. I have read it more than once and every time I find some new valuable info for improving my climbing.
I am reading your book, training for climbers and I am absolutely fascinated about life and climbing, Thank you for putting the book together its changing my life philosophy already.
Kyle (New Hampshire):
Thanks for all the great training advice in How to Climb 5.12. After being a mediocre 5.10 climber for years I received your book as a gift, applied your training techniques, and transformed into a solid 5.11+ climber.
I am reading your book and so far I have found it absolutely amazing! Many of the concepts of strength training are new to me even though I've been climbing for 15 years.
Thanks for all you do for the sport, Eric. I have all your books and read them again monthly!!
Thanks for your great books, Eric. I have read them all--they are the best! Cheers,
I have been going through your podcasts (again) and I just wanted to say thank you. So much of your advice; the mental training material has been especially helpful in my climbing and the rest of my life. Positive thinking is indeed a very powerful force. Certainly reading more about your friend the late great Todd Skinner, and how he lived his life, has helped me change the way I look at things as well. Thanks again.
Erica (N. Carolina):
I just wanted to tell you how happy it was to run into you at the crag last Saturday! I felt inspired after talking to you, and your compliments really upped my confidence. Anyway, I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you! Hopefully I'll see you out again sometime - my husband was jealous I got to meet you and he didn't! Take care!
First and foremost I just wanted to tell you that I am reading both How to Climb 5.12 and Training for Climbing, and am extremely impressed with simplicity and effectiveness of your training principles. In just few weeks of adding a 15lb weight to my pull-up training I went from barely doing 4 pull-ups to going strong 15 times (at body weight). I guess I am a proof the HIT training really works!
Ken (Missoula, MT):
This is a note to say that last night at a local western Montana crag, I redpointed my first 5.12! Itís a vertical, highly technical limestone line of about 85 feet called Devil & Me (5.12b). I should add that Iím 48 years old and four years ago, after a 10-year hiatus from climbing, I decided to see how far I could get in the ratings, having topped out my first time around at about 11a. Your books have been instrumental in getting me to this point. So, I owe your good work and words a big thanks! With a methodical, process-oriented approach (which I completely lacked in my 20s even though I climbed all the time) I feel the sky is the limit, even at middle age.
I recently bought the book Training for Climbing, and I think it's an excellent book. Thank you, Eric!
Hi Eric, About a year ago a friend who is a much better climber than me pointed out that I should really be climbing a lot harder than I was--I had just started doing 5.10b trad but was still only at about 5.10a for sport climbing, mainly from being particularly weak on overhanging routes. So 6 months ago I dug out your How to Climb 5.12 book, followed your training and diet advice, did the antagonistic muscle exercises you recommend, and just did my first 5.12a this weekend! Thanks for your good training advice.
Let me begin by thanking you for all the help that you have given me over the years. Between your TFC book, Mental Wings CD, Masters of Rock CD, podcasts, and training articles; I believe that I have attempted to absorb a bit of everything that you have offered. In all honesty, I have been in kind of a funk lately for a variety of reasons and have very much appreciated your recent articles about motivation.
Eric, I purchased a copy of "Training for Climbing" two days ago and I already think its brilliant. I've read it through once so far and I'm amazed at the extra information that you have added on top of the chapters in "How to Climb 5.12". Today I went back up to Norton Summit to have another go at my project. I followed your nutrition recommendations closely: Eating a good breakfast, drinking plenty of water, snacking on some medium GI food, and continual drinking whilst climbing. And, I consumed a high GI drink and some protein immediately after climbing. I also used the visualization technique you described and found that I was able to make an extra four moves on top of my previous efforts. I also noticed that I was considerably less pumped after each attempt. Even though I still havenít completed the climb I left the crag feeling much more satisfied than usual and more confident about my climbing. I guess this is just a really long email to say THANKS!
Calen (Barstow, CA):
I love your web site and your books. They have helped me immensely. Thanks to your advice, I just had the best climbing trip of my life. I onsighted a ton of great routes and redpointed my first 11d in Smith Rock! Thanks for all the help!
Stuart (Auburn, AL):
really enjoyed reading Training For Climbing. It is a
very well written book! Thanks for being such an active part
in continuing education for training.
I read a quote from your training book and consequently bought
it. This book has changed my whole attitude in climbing and
life due to your mental training chapter. Just wanted to say
(Blue Mountains, Australia):
This is just a quick thank you for the massive improvements
your book has bought me in climbing. 14 months ago I started
climbing, and dislocated my left shoulder, pretty badly, within
the first month. Two physiotherapists told me there was no way
I'd ever climb again without dual shoulder reconstructions (my
other shoulder was dodgy too). A local gun climber, Christina
Bedard turned me on to your book, telling me she'd been using
your techniques to overcome the same injury. And so a year later
and a lot of weight sessions later I'm climbing hard and fitter
than ever before. I've gone from a fragile bumbly to climbing
20-22 (about 5.10b-c in your money), bouldering V4 in just under
12 months and never been happier. My shoulders feel incredible
and my confidence in their stability grows every day. Thank
you again, and I hope the rock is good to you.
I have your climbing book Training for Climbing, and
I think it is great!
Hi Eric, I thought I'd send a quick note to let you know that
your program worked for me. I bought your book How To Climb
5.12 in the fall, completed one full ten-week cycle with
a partner this winter, and followed this with less formal
endurance and HIT sessions interspersed with many routes.
Last week I red-pointed my first 12a at Chek near Squamish!
Thanks for your book How to Climb 5.12. It has really
made a world of difference in so many ways, physically and
mentally. I am not an overly demonstrative person, but I can't
stop raving about and reading it. It's falling apart it's
been so well used. :-) Cheers!
Rob (Bangor, Ireland):
Many thanks for the training tips Eric. Also I must pass on
that the H.I.T Strips are a fantastic training tool! Myself
and brother have been cycling on and off them for a while and
have found them very beneficial. Once again many thanks and
keep on climbing!
Roberto (Quito, Ecuador):
Hi Eric;I read your book Training for Climbing. I think
is the best book in the field.
Brent (Atlanta, GA):
Just wanted to say how much I've learned from your two earlier
books (How To Climb 5.12 and Flash Training).
In the past 2 months I've moved into the 5.12 realm, redpointing
4 different ones (all on different rock types: steep/endurance,
steep but bouldery, sustained face, and bouldery face).
I think one of the most useful things that I learned from
your book was the progress pyramid in the back. I went through
the 11's, building a solid base on different types of routes.
While I probably could have rushed my progress into the 5.12
range by projecting 1 route, I think it would have been detrimental
in the long run as I would have lacked a foundation on which
to build upon. Now I need to purchase Training For Climbing
and get even more serious about training!
I bought your books, How to Climb 5.12 and Flash Training
after being inspired to start rock climbing. I read them
cover to cover and have since looked back on them innumerable
time as references. They were especially helpful to me in avoiding
injury, diagnosing injury and curing it, and getting stronger.
The year I began climbing and bought your books I managed to
lead a 5.8.
That winter I joined a gym and started climbing there two
or three days a week. The next summer I began projecting routes
at Rumney...first a 12a, then a 12a/b, then a 12c, then a
12d, two 13as, a 13b/c, and then a 13d. Some of these routes
took me ten climbing days or in one case even more to redpoint.
The following winter I began bouldering. I climbed three V10s.
I did another couple 13a/b climbs, worked a 13d unsuccessfully
five days (I'll get it yet) and a couple more 12ds. My big
project, which took me 19 days of effort, was a 5.14b. I tried
it seven days in the spring and then finished it in the fall,
working other stuff over the summer. It was great fun and
I just sent it yesterday. I thank you for the advice your
books provided that kept me in the high country (away from
plateaus) on my journey to 5.14.
Subject: Kudos from an ex. science guy. I just wanted to pop
an email over to you because everything of yours that I've seen
is well researched, and follows sound pricinples. Your applications
to the world of climbing has been inspirational to me since
I found myself having a hard time applying what I had learned
in school studying Exercise Science, and as a scholrshiped NCAA
Div. I Decathlete, to my new passion and pass time. Keep up
the good work!
I want to tell you that Training for Climbing is clearly
the best and most comprehensive book on climbing training methodology
I have ever read. In particular, the chapters on mental training
and skills/strategy training have inspired me and have given
me extremely valuable insights for my future workouts. Your
explanations have also led me to finally understand why parts
of my previous training schedule did not yield the desired results
in the past. Thanks for such a great work!
Eric, Just wanted to say thanks for writing Training for
Climbing. Since I started reading it and training, I have
improved one letter grade every two weeks. I am having a great
time doing the strength training exercises and just enjoying
the process of climbing with a different mentality.
Paul (Sydney, Australia):
Hi Eric; I've just finished reading Training for Climbing--great
work! Over the last 14 years I have studied climbing and to
date your new book is by far the most accessible to "intermediate"
climbers. Keep up the fine work!
George Bristol (Iraq and Afghanistan):
I own both Training for Climbing and Flash Training,
and it might warm your heart to know that the books accompanied
me to Iraq last year--some of the young Marines training with
me got to know your "Frenchies" and the like! Eric,
your easy-to-read style and obvious technical knowledge has
finally penetrated the rock hard dome of this Marine! You
have a big fan in me. I will tune into your website regularly
and will undoubtedly gain from your continued excellence.
Thanks much and Semper Fidelis.
(Dept of Microbiology, University of Western Australia):
I have been climbing for about 1 year and reached a plateau
around two months ago. At this time I was stuck in my local
gym redpointing australian grade 21 with the occasional onsight.
This was really frustrating me and made me consider quitting
as I thought I couldnt get any better. We have a fairly small
climbing community here in Western Australia, so its hard to
find experienced climbers who will devote time to helping others.
It was around this time that I found your website and bought
your book How to climb 5.12. After following your training
advice for around one month (increasing finger and forearm strengh
by campusing and fingerboards and bouldering to hone my gripping
actions) my climbing skill as dramatically altered for the better.
In my first performance day at the gym after 1 month of training
I was able to onsight 2 australian grade 23 and am very close
to redpointing my first 24. I have also had success out doors,
pulling down climbs of grade 22/23 that were completely unworkable
two months ago. A short while ago these were fantasy climbs
I could not have dreamed of achieving.
These results have really pumped me up and
encouraged me to aim for pulling down some really hard climbs.
This would not have been possible without the help of your
books and website and I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of
Training for Climbing in our climbing bookstore. Thank
you for rekindling my passion for rock climbing and putting
the unreachable within my reach.
Curtis (Nelson, BC, Canada):
I just wanted thank you for all the great information supplied
in your How to Climb 5.12 book. I read it last winter
and followed many of your training tips. I've been climbing
off and on for about 6 or 7 years, but I've never really been
more than a 5.10 climber. By this time last year my hardest
redpoint was 5.11a. Anyway, a few months ago I started your
HIT training and 2 weeks ago I sent a 5.12b on my 4th try. I
can't wait to read your next book!
I read your books How To Climb 5.12 and Flash Training
in January `02 and I have progressed from climbing 5.10a to
onsighting 5.11a and redpointing 11d in under six months! YES,
your books work, and YES, belief gives birth to reality!! Thank
you for sharing your knowledge with us!
Joel (Cedar City, UT):
I very much enjoyed your book How To Climb 5.12 and have
culled many useful techniques and tips from it. Using visualization
and some of your training advice, I have gone from a sloppy
5.9/5.10 climber to onsighting up to 10d and redpointing up
11b! Thanks a bunch!
Thomas (New Zealand):
Your book is awesome! Shortly after I got your book I started
resting way more and doing the 4-3-2-1 training program. I saw
rapid improvement and two months later I done a 5.11d in the
gym and yesterday (7th April) I sent a 5.12a on my 7th atempt!
Thanks heaps for the advice.
Omar (London, UK):
I think that your approach to the subject is a fantastic one
indeed. Whilst reading through the article on your Mental
Wings strategies, I realized that I have this information
circling me all day everyday but there was always something
missing. Now I have realized that it sometimes takes the efforts
of people like yourself to display them in order for us to complete
our journeys. Many thanks!
You will be pleased to know that your book, Flash Training,
along with the current HIT training article on the Net have
encouraged me (and a few friends) to try and gain a little more
strength in sensible ways. Some of the pathways spoken of show
their usefulness at different times. It is nice to see people
encouraging climbing for fun, not grades.
I bought How To Climb
5.12 about 18 months ago when I was only climbing French
6a (5.10b). This Sunday I redpointed "Pulf", my first 7a+/5.12a,
at a crag named Drapel in Switzerland. Thank You!
Alex (New Hampshire):
I've been climbing seriously for about a year now and I read
How to climb 5.12 last spring when my hardest lead was
a 10a. After a winter in the gym, using some of your training
tips, my first day out for the spring, three weeks ago, saw
me redpoint Things as They Are Now (12a, Rumney, NH), my first
5.12, on my 3rd try. The stuff in the book really helped me
out and gave me a lot of confidence. Thanks.
I recently purchased your book How To Climb 5.12. I must
say the book is the best ever! I can't wait to read Flash Training.
Jed (Salt Lake City):
I started climbing 6 years ago and have never had a passion
for a sport like I do for climbing. After running a marathon
a few years ago my kids asked me what I was going to do next--I
said "I was going to climb a 5.12 by my 40th birthday." My hardest
redpoint to date was 5.11a. My wife bought me your book How
To Climb 5.12 and I read it a few times. I made some adjustments
to my home wall, begin some HIT workouts and started using your
4-3-2-1 training schedule. In a few months I redpointed 5.11d,
but my birthday was not far off. I started working a route in
Big Cottonwood Canyon called "Big in Japan" (5.12b). I drew
a topo and stated visualizing my ascent. After working the route
on five different days, I could do it with just one fall. I
rested two days and took my whole family (Zach 16, Malissa 15,
Jackson 9, and Kaitlynn 9 mo.) to watch the old man celebrate
his big day. After a few warm-up routes, my wife Lynne gave
me a belay--I fell at the crux. After a 45-minute rest, I nailed
it! Thanks so much for your great book. It assisted me in achieving
a goal that I'll even admit seemed a little too far out there.
Most of all, my kids think it's way rad old dad did a 5.12 on
his 40th birthday. I'm not stopping there, of course!
Finally I have found someone who is willing to offer very detail
information on training for climbing. In Australia, it's very
"closed shop" on how to train...people either don't know or
don't want to share the goods on how to climb harder. Well,
I'm glad we have the Internet--thanks for your website and the
books. Keep up the good work.
I just finished reading your book. There is something to be
said about getting to the point--which you do very well--I read
you book in half the time it took to read the other training
book I own, and yours contains much more usable and practical
information. Personally, the section on mental training hit
home. Physically, 5.12 is not that hard of a grade for me, but
mentally it requires a Herculean effort. I think you did a great
job, and I recommend the book to others.
Thank you, Mr. Horst for helping me achieve my first 5.12a/7a+
just a few days ago...thanks to your influence through the innovative
book, How To Climb 5.12!
I have read your book How To Climb 5.12 and I found it
very useful. I've been climbing for about five years and am
making decent progress... I'm now breaking into 5.12 sport and
5.10 trad. Thank you.
Justin & Kristen (Missouri):
This message is long overdue. My wife and I contacted you about
6 months ago after we puchased your HIT strip training system.
Needless to say, we have enjoyed them tremendously...or should
I say we enjoyed the results! First a little history: Kristen
and I started climbing March 23, 2000, and our first climb was
a 5.6 75-foot toprope. I'll never forget the burn I got on that...forearms
screaming, I was proud that both of us made it to the top without
falling off. Two months later I pumped out my first 5.10, then
it was back to easier stuff to learn to lead. Two months later
I lead my first trad 5.10! My wife followed right behind me
and completed the same climbs shortly there after. Anyway, to
make a long story short, after 10 months of climbing I redpointed
a 5.12b/c, and Kristen pumped out an 5.11d! We entered our first
competition a couple weeks ago--Kristen came in 3rd place Women,
and I won overall. We're saying all this to thank you and let
you know that there are a lot more people interested in the
HIT strips now! Of course, everyone at the gym now asks me what
I do to workout. Thanks for everything, and congrats on the
latest member of your family.
I am writing to let you know that having studied How To Climb
5.12, I am impressed with the quality on your advice and
your willingness to debunk myths about what makes climbers stronger.
I look forward to onsighting my first 7a+ at the end of my next
Recently I bought your book Flash Training. Congratulations
on a really great piece of work! It is excellent. As a 50 year
old weekend warrior, I wish I was 21 again so I could hang out
at the crags all over again knowing what I now know! Well, I
am attempting to get to Everest next year to continue my Seven
Summits project... Thanks for your help!
David (New Zealand):
Just a quick one. I loved your book How To Climb 5.12
and I have persuaded my local gym to build a special bouldering
wall just for your HIT Workouts (and the HIT Strips). Thanks
from New Zealand!
I have read both your books and they are great. I'm well on
my way to climbing 5.12 and I'm stronger than ever. The sections
on finger pulley injuries helped me identify a partial tendon
tear in my forearm. I stopped climbing right away and it probably
saved me a trip to the OR. Thanks!
The main reason I'm writing is to thank you for, I think, saving
my climbing career. I am 41 and have been training a long time,
but naggin elbow tendonitis has always followed me. To make
a long story short, your emphasis on reverse wrist curls has
had a huge impact on my training schedule and has all but eliminated
my elbow pain. I had read your suggestions many times, but only
tried it as a last ditch effort. My first set felt like a healing
balm was being applied. I was amazed! I hope to shortly be able
to top my best efforts (thanks to your articles and books I
have onsight 5.12b). If you are ever in Fort Collins, I owe
you a beer.
Thank you for your two books. They have greatly improved my
climbing ability and motivation. I have increased my grades
from mid teens (5.8/5.9) to my recent redpoint of a 25 (5.11d/5/12a).
The best parts of both books was the mental training chapters.
Your visualization and focus exercises are a regular part of
my routine, to the dismay of most of my fellow climbers--they
don't like me being overly optimistic! Once again thanks, my
climbing ability owes you.
Two years ago I got a hold of your first book Flash Training
and I am greatly impressed by the straight-from-the-can
instructions on training for climbing. In my first year climbing,
a friend called me mediocre--so I wanted to eat him alive in
the competitions. Your book is now my second bible and I employ
all your exercises like lock-offs, frenchies, uneven grip pull-ups
and, my favorite, heavy finger rolls. After doing these for
one month, to my amazement, I did a one-arm dyno on a dinky
sloper and stuck it! In this year's national competition I kicked
butt, and left many strong climbers behind, including my mate
who had told me I was mediocre. (He ended up eliminated and
spent the night in a local bar.) I just got a copy of How
To Climb 5.12 and I find it equally outstanding--it's now
my third bible! I really thank you for the superb climbing training
instructions in your books. MABUHAY! (That means, "long live"!)
I recently purchased your book How To Climb 5.12. It
is an outstanding reference to anyone who wants to get better
quick. The first time I tried some of the ideas in your book
I noticed an improvement. Your book helped me onsight my hardest
climb to date, a 5.11d. Thank you!
What a great book you write! Both Flash Training and
How To Climb 5.12 pointed out many things I was thinking
about but never could put into words. Your HIT workout definitely
gave me much more strength--I think it's a really important
development for training for climbing. Thank you very much for
you great work for climbing, Eric!
Your book how to climb 5.12 gave me a burst of enthusiasm when
I read it 1 year ago. I am a trad kind of climber who likes
to boulder sometimes, sport climb and aid and rope solo. I lead
5.10+s trad, and onsighted 11b sport. Now I just climbed successfully
this V4 problem I?ve always tried climbing when passing by at
the Gunks. (on the boulder on carriage road not far from High
Exposure) I was totally surprised and extatic! Then I did it
again with relative ease. It was so good to see the progress
I made in climbing! I had to tell you. Thank you for all your
enthusiasm, good books and all.