Climbing Research

International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering
7th - 9th April 1999 University of Leeds, UK.

Forward - Chris Bonington


  • Three-Dimensional Analysis of Rock Climbing Techniques - B Kauer, W Gebert, I Werner
  • Knee Joint Forces During Downhill Walking with Hiking Poles - R Roithner, H Schwameder, E Müller, W Niessen
  • A Biomechanical Study of Equilibrium in Rock Climbing - F Quaine, L Martin
  • Forces on the Falling Climber Depending on Different Belaying Techniques - R Messner, G Meraner, T Schliernzauer, B Knuenz, W Nachbauer
  • Techniques to Assess Locomotion Perturbations during Hiking - F Barbier
  • Analysis of Climbing Technique using the ProReflex 3d Motion Analysis System (Poster) - J Bursnall, N Messenger


  • Key-Note: Physiological Aspects of Difficult Rock Climbing - P B Watts
  • Energy Expenditure and Metabolic Cost during Technically Similar but Physically Different Rock Climbing Tasks - D A Doran, J Moncrieff
  • Physiological Adaptations in Elite Rock Climbers. - R A Ferguson, M D Brown.
  • Physiological and Metabolic Responses in Novice and Recreational Rock Climbers - D A Doran, S Grace
  • Blood Lactate Responses to Competitive Climbing - W Gebert, I Werner
  • Cardiorespiratory Responses to Climbing at Extreme Altitude (3650m - 8200m) - T Lämmle
  • Energy Balance During High-Altitude Sojourns - J E Edwards, D A Tanner, J M Stager
  • Cardiovascular and Metabolic Responses to Back Country Skiing - T Hatzl
  • Fitness Depending Exercise Intensity During Back Country Skiing (Poster) - R Puehringer, B Knuenz, M Burtscher

    Sports Medicine

  • Injury and Associated Training and Performance Characteristics in Recreational Climbers. - D A Doran, M Reay
  • The Effect of Creatine Supplementation on Upper Body Power Output in Elite Level Rock Climbers. - D A Doran, A Godfrey
  • How to prevent High Altitude Headache (Poster) - M Burtscher, L Rudolf
  • Anthropometric Changes of the Members of Everest Expedition (Poster) - S Burnik., B Leskošek
  • Practical Application of Sports Nutrition Principles in Mountaineering (Poster) - J Farrington

    Safety and Standards

  • Key-Note: The BMC, Technology, and the Safety of Climbers - R N H McMillan
  • Analysis of Karabiner Failures while Belaying with Figure-of-Eight Devices - F Ramsden, I Masters
  • Energy Absorption Tests on Used and New Helmets - D B Brook
  • Fatality Risk during Mountain Sports Activities - M Burtscher, W Nachbauer, E Kornexl
  • Climbing - A Risky Buisness? - R A Smith

    Materials and Equipment

  • Key-Note: The Engineering Suitability of Metallic Climbing Equipment - T K Hellen
  • Experimental Testing and Finite Element Analysis of the Eclipse Karabiner - S Brocklehurst, I Masters
  • Design of Ice-Axes Heads - S Haake
  • Development of Belaying Techniques and Devices in Japan; 44 years from Goro Wakayama’s Death - S Ishioka, K Nakagawa
  • Weathering Test on Lifetime Expectancy of Slings (Poster) - B J Nelissen, K.M Blok, A T M Schlattman
  • Heating in Top Karabiner during Descent in Top Rope Situation (Poster) - T P Valkering, K M Blok, A T M Schlattman, B J Nelissen

    Textiles and Clothing

  • Key-Note: Performance Clothing - How do you know the technology works? - D Frodsham
  • A Model Specifying Choice of an Outdoor Clothing System for High Activity for Given Temperature Ranges. - N Brown
  • Transfer Wicking Mechanism of Tactel Fleece Knitted Fabric - L Q Zhuang
  • Moisture Vapour Transport Through Waterproof Breathable Fabrics under Conditions of Rain - J C Gretton
  • Evaluation and Improvement of Waterproofing for Hiking and Mountaineering - I Wilkinson


  • The Use of Satellite Navigation Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering Activities - S Capaccio
  • Mapping Remoteness and Off-Road Travel times using GIS and Computer Models (Poster) - S Carver, S Fritz

    Physical Education

  • Detecting Pupils, Talented for Sport Climbing in Slovenian Schools (Poster) - B Leskošek, M Bohanec, V Rajkoviè

    Ethical and Philosophical Issues

  • Climbing Upwards or Climbing Backwards? The Technological Metamorphoses of Climbing and Mountaineering. - A Miah
  • Science and Controversy in Oxygen Use on Everest - A Historical Perspective. (Poster) - G P Burton, I P Dodd

  • Copyright © Training for Climbing. All Rights Reserved. E-mail: EH@TrainingForClimbing.com