Prior to the 1990s climbing boom there was little research extant other that a handful of studies that mainly focused on climbing injuries and demographics. Fortunately, an increasing number of academics now view rock climbing as a worthy subject of research.

In recent years there have been numerous studies published by British, French, German, and American researchers. In the U.S., Dr. Phil Watts of Northern Michigan University has been leading the push, while others like the U.K.'s Dave Binney have likewise added much to the body of knowledge. Several graduate students, both in the US and abroad, are now jumping in with excellent Thesis projects involving climbing. Following are links to abstracts and papers published by dedicated researchers who share our passion for rock climbing!

As the clearinghouse for information on climbing performance, TFC invites other researchers to submit papers or links for dissemination to a our global audience. Feel free to contact me at Research"at"TrainingForClimbing"dot"com

Photos: Research in motion at the Department of Health, Physical Education & Recreation, Northern Michigan University. Courtesy: Dr. Phil Watts