How To Climb 5.12
Third Edition

by Eric J. Hörst

(Price: $18.95, Pages: 186, Release:2011)

Chapter 1: YES, YOU CAN CLIMB 5.12
Getting "On Route" To 5.12, Distinguishing Good Advice from Bad Advice , The Nine Absolute Truths of Climbing Performance, Evaluating Your Current Performance, Self-Assessment Test

The Optimal Amount of Climb Time, Practice Days vs. Performance Days, Learning New Skills, Blocked Practice of Difficult Moves, Variable Practice of Skills, Skill Guidance Methods, Self-Awareness of Performancem, Modeling Advanced Climbers, Developing a Broad Repertoire of Skills, On-Sight Practice Payoffs, The Synergy of Mental and Physical Practice, Speed Training of Skills, Down-Climbing Routes, Fatigued Skill Practice, Random Skill Practice, Feedback and Video Analysis

Basic Training Program: Optimizing Body Composition, Flexibility Training, Strength Training 101, Supplemental Strength Training Exercises
Advanced Training Program:
Sport-Specific Strength Training, The "4-3-2-1 Training Cycle", Phase #1: Four Weeks of Endurance Training, Phase #2: Three Weeks of Maximum Strength Training, Phase #3: Two Weeks of Anaerobic-Endurance Training, Phase #4: One Week of Rest & Recovery
Preventing Injury and Speeding Recovery:
Supplemental Training for Muscle Balance, Rest and Recovery From Workouts, Nutrition to Speed Recovery, Sleep and Grow Strong

Motivation Multiplies Talent, Goals That Compel Action, Discipline Leads To Excellence, Cranking Up Confidence, Visualization--Pre-Programming the Future, Developing Pre-Climb Rituals, Reasonable Fears vs. Unreasonable Fears, Turning Down the Pressure, Focus--The Mind's Hold on the Rock, Maintaining Control and Poise, Self-Talk Yourself To Success

Selecting the Right Route for Redpoint or On-sight, On-Sight Climbing, Working a Project, Redpointing Your Project, Tricks For Tough Climbs

What it Takes to Climb 5.12,Optimal Climbing and Rest Schedule, The Effects of Indoor Climbing on Real Rock Performance, Fingerboard Training Tips, Vitamin Supplements for Climbers, Nutritional Tips to Enhance Performance and Speed Recovery, The Importance of "Downtime" and the "Reminiscence Effect", Treatment of the Common Finger Tendon "A2 Pulley" Injury, Building an Affordable Home Training Wall, The Truth About Campus Training, Lowering Injury Risk, Spreading Your Mental Wings for Peak Performance

APPENDIX A: Hypergravity Isolation Training (The HIT Workout)
APPENDIX B: Pyramid Charts to Plot Your Improvement
APPENDIX C: Fitness Evaluation and Questionnaire

Order a signed copy from the author here >>


Book Reviews

How To Climb 5.12 packs a lot into a slim book. A great first training book and a good addition to any training junkie's book shelf.
--Rock & Ice Magazine

Well Researched and right on!
--Lynn Hill, World Cup Champion and first women to climb 5.14

Eric Horst is a writer whose books are concise, informative and easily digestible. How To Climb 5.12 isn't just for those who are experienced in the sport, but also offers a great deal to those just starting out as the principles are very scalable.
--Deadpoint Climbing Online, United Kingdom

Concise, informative and easily digestible. Super effort and super job, Eric!
--Steve Petro, Veteran Rock Ace (and the "Schwarzenegger" of climbing)

The best book of its type, I have yet to read (and I've read`em all, I think).
--Dr. Mark Robinson

Editional Preview:
The Second Edition of this best-selling 1997 book is completely rewritten and redesigned, and contains dozens of new photos and over 80 new pages. Even if you've read the First Edition, you'll glean new ideas and distinctions from this revised edition. Whether you climb 5.6 or already climb 5.12, this book will give you new insights and renewed motivation to break new barriers and climb your best!

Reviewer: Dan from Boston, MA
This is a great climbing book in that it presents two great ideas: that you can climb 5.12, and you have to train like a real athlete to succeed. I know climbing is fun but I want to excell at it . This was very helpful in gaining the focus I need.

Reviewer: fernando from Brazil
This book is really good. It teaches a lot of concepts about climbing, especially about head games. It elucidates misconceptions about the importance of our mind when climbing. Many times one's mentally incapable of making a route , not fisically as we think. Lots of hours doing pull ups is not the way to go. Read this book and I am sure you will use your mind smartly next time you go climbing. How to set your mind to a climb was the most important lesson I've learned from this book although there are a lot of information about work outs, finger power, nutrition and so on.

Reviewer: rhicaro from Chicago, IL
Stuck at a certain level in your climbing abilities? Can't seem to move from 5.9 to 5.10? Tired of listening to advice that doesn't work? Then this book will get you out of your rut...and FAST. Eric covers everything to move you to your first 5.12: training techniques, workout schedules, power training, mental exercises to focus, build confidence, and motivate, climbing strategies, even nutrition! Every serious climber should have this book.

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