| How
To Climb 5.12
Third Edition
by Eric J. Hörst
(Price:
$18.95, Pages: 186, Release:2011)
Chapter
1: YES, YOU CAN CLIMB 5.12 Getting
"On Route" To 5.12, Distinguishing Good Advice from Bad Advice
, The Nine Absolute Truths of Climbing Performance, Evaluating
Your Current Performance, Self-Assessment Test
Chapter 2: HONING YOUR SKILLS--FAST!
The
Optimal Amount of Climb Time, Practice Days vs. Performance
Days, Learning New Skills, Blocked Practice of Difficult Moves,
Variable Practice of Skills, Skill Guidance Methods, Self-Awareness
of Performancem, Modeling Advanced Climbers, Developing a
Broad Repertoire of Skills, On-Sight Practice Payoffs, The
Synergy of Mental and Physical Practice, Speed Training of
Skills, Down-Climbing Routes, Fatigued Skill Practice, Random
Skill Practice, Feedback and Video Analysis
Chapter
3: WELCOME TO CONDITIONING
Basic Training Program: Optimizing Body Composition,
Flexibility Training, Strength Training 101, Supplemental
Strength Training Exercises
Advanced Training Program: Sport-Specific
Strength Training, The "4-3-2-1 Training Cycle", Phase #1:
Four Weeks of Endurance Training, Phase #2: Three Weeks of
Maximum Strength Training, Phase #3: Two Weeks of Anaerobic-Endurance
Training, Phase #4: One Week of Rest & Recovery
Preventing Injury and Speeding Recovery: Supplemental
Training for Muscle Balance, Rest and Recovery From Workouts,
Nutrition to Speed Recovery, Sleep and Grow Strong
Chapter
4: WINNING THE HEAD GAME
Motivation Multiplies Talent, Goals That Compel Action, Discipline
Leads To Excellence, Cranking Up Confidence, Visualization--Pre-Programming
the Future, Developing Pre-Climb Rituals, Reasonable Fears
vs. Unreasonable Fears, Turning Down the Pressure, Focus--The
Mind's Hold on the Rock, Maintaining Control and Poise, Self-Talk
Yourself To Success
Chapter
5: CLIMBING YOUR FIRST 5.12 (& BEYOND!)
Selecting
the Right Route for Redpoint or On-sight, On-Sight Climbing,
Working a Project, Redpointing Your Project, Tricks For Tough
Climbs
Chapter
6: FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What
it Takes to Climb 5.12,Optimal Climbing and Rest Schedule, The
Effects of Indoor Climbing on Real Rock Performance, Fingerboard
Training Tips, Vitamin Supplements for Climbers, Nutritional
Tips to Enhance Performance and Speed Recovery, The Importance
of "Downtime" and the "Reminiscence Effect", Treatment of the
Common Finger Tendon "A2 Pulley" Injury, Building an Affordable
Home Training Wall, The Truth About Campus Training, Lowering
Injury Risk, Spreading Your Mental Wings for Peak Performance
APPENDIX A: Hypergravity Isolation Training (The HIT Workout)
APPENDIX B: Pyramid Charts to Plot Your Improvement
APPENDIX C: Fitness Evaluation and Questionnaire
Order
a signed copy from the author here
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Book
Reviews
How
To Climb 5.12 packs a lot into a slim book. A great
first training book and a good addition to any training
junkie's book shelf.
--Rock & Ice Magazine
Well
Researched and right on!
--Lynn Hill, World Cup Champion and first women to
climb 5.14
Eric
Horst is a writer whose books are concise, informative
and easily digestible. How To Climb 5.12 isn't just
for those who are experienced in the sport, but also
offers a great deal to those just starting out as the
principles are very scalable.
--Deadpoint Climbing Online, United Kingdom
Concise,
informative and easily digestible. Super effort and
super job, Eric!
--Steve Petro, Veteran Rock Ace (and the "Schwarzenegger"
of climbing)
The
best book of its type, I have yet to read (and I've
read`em all, I think).
--Dr. Mark Robinson
Editional Preview:
The Second Edition of this best-selling 1997 book is
completely rewritten and redesigned, and contains dozens
of new photos and over 80 new pages. Even if you've
read the First Edition, you'll glean new ideas and distinctions
from this revised edition. Whether you climb 5.6 or
already climb 5.12, this book will give you new insights
and renewed motivation to break new barriers and climb
your best!
Reviewer: Dan from Boston, MA
This is a great climbing book in that it presents two
great ideas: that you can climb 5.12, and you have to
train like a real athlete to succeed. I know climbing
is fun but I want to excell at it . This was very helpful
in gaining the focus I need.
Reviewer: fernando from Brazil
This book is really good. It teaches a lot of concepts
about climbing, especially about head games. It elucidates
misconceptions about the importance of our mind when
climbing. Many times one's mentally incapable of making
a route , not fisically as we think. Lots of hours doing
pull ups is not the way to go. Read this book and I
am sure you will use your mind smartly next time you
go climbing. How to set your mind to a climb was the
most important lesson I've learned from this book although
there are a lot of information about work outs, finger
power, nutrition and so on.
Reviewer: rhicaro from Chicago, IL
Stuck at a certain level in your climbing abilities?
Can't seem to move from 5.9 to 5.10? Tired of listening
to advice that doesn't work? Then this book will get
you out of your rut...and FAST. Eric covers everything
to move you to your first 5.12: training techniques,
workout schedules, power training, mental exercises
to focus, build confidence, and motivate, climbing strategies,
even nutrition! Every serious climber should have this
book. |
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