The archive of training articles is being reworked and will become available later this fall. Please check back soon!
Physical Training
Breaking a Performance Plateau – Part #1
Challenging Yourself in New and Different Ways!
Three Cornerstone Training Principles
Eastern Bloc Training – Heavy Finger Rolls
Effective Pull-up Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
Training Muscular Endurance – Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance – Part 2
How To Increase Your “Pull Strength” by 20 Percent!
Pilates for Climbers
H.I.T. Workout Details
Low-Stress Campus Training
Campus Training – Part 2
Pump Rocks “Best of” Exercises
Effective Hangboard Training – Part 1
Training in Accordance to the “SAID Principle”
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Intro to Training the Core Muscles
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Stamina Training for Long Days and Wall Climbs
Power Pull-ups
One-Arm Traversing To Build Contact Strength
Top 5 Pulling Exercises for Climbers
Outdoor Bouldering as Training
Stretching to Improve High Stepping and Hip Turnout
Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises
Rotator Cuff Training – Part 1
Rotator Cuff Training – Part 2
Intro to Reactive Training for Power – Part 1
Reactive Training – Part 2 – One-Arm Traversing
Reactive Training – Part 3 – Campus Lock-offs (aka “Touches”)
Reactive Training – Part 4 – Campus Laddering
Reactive Training – Part 5 – Campus Training “Double Dynos”
Training “Local Endurance” with Moving Hangs
Fingerboard Pyramid Training
Alpine and Ultra-Stamina Training
Overview of HIT System Workouts for Building Maximum Grip Strength
Home Training with Pump Rock – Part 1
Advanced Pump Rock Training – Part 2
Three Cornerstone Training Principles
Injury, Recovery & Nutrition
Supplemental Training to Reduce Injury Risk
Rotator Cuff Training & Rehab
5 Tips for Reducing Injury Risk
Overview of Elbow Tendon Injuries
Treating “Climber’s Elbow”
Treating Lateral Elbow Tendinosis
Finger Tendon Pulley Injury
Shoulder Injuries and Prevention
Essential Forearm Stretches
Nutrition & Recovery
The Truth About Creatine for Climbers
Optimizing Body Composition
Online Calorie Counter
Importance of Proper Water Consumption
Overview of Fatigue & Accelerating Recovery
Accelerating Short-term Recovery (Part 2 in a series)
Accelerating Medium-Term Recovery (Part 3 in a series)
Mental Training
The Power of Proactive Positive Thinking!
Breaking Performance Plateaus – Part #3
Improving Concentration – Part 1
Improving Concentration – Part 2
Improving Concentration – Part 3
Improving Concentration – Part 4
Climbing “X-Factors” – Willpower & Imagination
The Importance of “Process Feedback” in Elevating Performance
Motivation & Performance: How to Elevate Both!
How To Become a Master of Rock
Amping Motivation
Learning to Focus Like a Laser Beam
Mental Training: Six Fixes to Increase Performance
Strategies for Increasing Motivation
The A.N.S.W.E.R. to Tension and Anxiety
Anticipating Moves and Developing Strategies
Your Thoughts Are Everything
Climbing “Practice” to Improve Performance
Tips for Reheasing a Redpoint
“Chunking Down” Routes for Efficient Redpoint Climbing
Pursuing Your “Mega Goals”
Increasing Strength Through Mind Training!
Self-Asessment: The Breakfast of Champions
The Power of Route Selection
Goal Setting for the New Year (& Beyond!)
Two Focus-Training Strategies
Overcoming the Fear of Falling
Importance of Preclimb Rituals
Technique & Tactics Training
Indoor Climbing Drills to Improve Your Technique
Breaking Performance Plateaus – Part #2
Tips for Improving Climbing Efficiency
Tips for Improving Climbing Efficiency – Part 2
Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises
Indoor Technique Training Drills – Part 1
Indoor Technique-Training Drills – Part 2
Developing Optimal Hand Technique
Effective Gym Training Strategies
Fundamentals of Technique 1
Fundamentals of Technique 2
Fundamentals of Technique 3
Fundamentals of Technique 4
Fundamentals of Technique 5
Fundamentals of Technique 6
Fundamentals of Technique 7
Fundamentals of Technique 8
Target Practice for Your Feet!
A “Power Principle” for Improving Technique
Twist Lock and Backstepping Technique
Center of Gravity Placement Part 1
Center of Gravity Placement Part 2
Research
The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Study: “G-Tox” Speeds Recovery
The Value of Chalk?
The Benefits of Active Recovery
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance
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Copyright© Eric J. Hörst