The archive of training articles is being reworked and will become available later this fall. Please check back soon!

Physical Training
  • Breaking a Performance Plateau – Part #1
  • Challenging Yourself in New and Different Ways!
  • Three Cornerstone Training Principles
  • Eastern Bloc Training – Heavy Finger Rolls
  • Effective Pull-up Training
  • An Overview of Power & Strength Training
  • Training Muscular Endurance – Part 1
  • Training Muscular Endurance – Part 2
  • How To Increase Your “Pull Strength” by 20 Percent!
  • Pilates for Climbers
  • H.I.T. Workout Details
  • Low-Stress Campus Training
  • Campus Training – Part 2
  • Pump Rocks “Best of” Exercises
  • Effective Hangboard Training – Part 1
  • Training in Accordance to the “SAID Principle”
  • High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
  • Intro to Training the Core Muscles
  • Physioball Exercises for Your Core
  • Stamina Training for Long Days and Wall Climbs
  • Power Pull-ups
  • One-Arm Traversing To Build Contact Strength
  • Top 5 Pulling Exercises for Climbers
  • Outdoor Bouldering as Training
  • Stretching to Improve High Stepping and Hip Turnout
  • Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises
  • Rotator Cuff Training – Part 1
  • Rotator Cuff Training – Part 2
  • Intro to Reactive Training for Power – Part 1
  • Reactive Training – Part 2 – One-Arm Traversing
  • Reactive Training – Part 3 – Campus Lock-offs (aka “Touches”)
  • Reactive Training – Part 4 – Campus Laddering
  • Reactive Training – Part 5 – Campus Training “Double Dynos”
  • Training “Local Endurance” with Moving Hangs
  • Fingerboard Pyramid Training
  • Alpine and Ultra-Stamina Training
  • Overview of HIT System Workouts for Building Maximum Grip Strength
  • Home Training with Pump Rock – Part 1
  • Advanced Pump Rock Training – Part 2
  • Three Cornerstone Training Principles

  • Injury, Recovery & Nutrition
  • Supplemental Training to Reduce Injury Risk
  • Rotator Cuff Training & Rehab
  • 5 Tips for Reducing Injury Risk
  • Overview of Elbow Tendon Injuries
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow”
  • Treating Lateral Elbow Tendinosis
  • Finger Tendon Pulley Injury
  • Shoulder Injuries and Prevention
  • Essential Forearm Stretches

  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • The Truth About Creatine for Climbers
  • Optimizing Body Composition
  • Online Calorie Counter
  • Importance of Proper Water Consumption
  • Overview of Fatigue & Accelerating Recovery
  • Accelerating Short-term Recovery (Part 2 in a series)
  • Accelerating Medium-Term Recovery (Part 3 in a series)
  •  
    Mental Training
  • The Power of Proactive Positive Thinking!
  • Breaking Performance Plateaus – Part #3
  • Improving Concentration – Part 1
  • Improving Concentration – Part 2
  • Improving Concentration – Part 3
  • Improving Concentration – Part 4
  • Climbing “X-Factors” – Willpower & Imagination
  • The Importance of “Process Feedback” in Elevating Performance
  • Motivation & Performance: How to Elevate Both!
  • How To Become a Master of Rock
  • Amping Motivation
  • Learning to Focus Like a Laser Beam
  • Mental Training: Six Fixes to Increase Performance
  • Strategies for Increasing Motivation
  • The A.N.S.W.E.R. to Tension and Anxiety
  • Anticipating Moves and Developing Strategies
  • Your Thoughts Are Everything
  • Climbing “Practice” to Improve Performance
  • Tips for Reheasing a Redpoint
  • “Chunking Down” Routes for Efficient Redpoint Climbing
  • Pursuing Your “Mega Goals”
  • Increasing Strength Through Mind Training!
  • Self-Asessment: The Breakfast of Champions
  • The Power of Route Selection
  • Goal Setting for the New Year (& Beyond!)
  • Two Focus-Training Strategies
  • Overcoming the Fear of Falling
  • Importance of Preclimb Rituals

  • Technique & Tactics Training
  • Indoor Climbing Drills to Improve Your Technique
  • Breaking Performance Plateaus – Part #2
  • Tips for Improving Climbing Efficiency
  • Tips for Improving Climbing Efficiency – Part 2
  • Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises
  • Indoor Technique Training Drills – Part 1
  • Indoor Technique-Training Drills – Part 2
  • Developing Optimal Hand Technique
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies
  • Fundamentals of Technique 1
  • Fundamentals of Technique 2
  • Fundamentals of Technique 3
  • Fundamentals of Technique 4
  • Fundamentals of Technique 5
  • Fundamentals of Technique 6
  • Fundamentals of Technique 7
  • Fundamentals of Technique 8
  • Target Practice for Your Feet!
  • A “Power Principle” for Improving Technique
  • Twist Lock and Backstepping Technique
  • Center of Gravity Placement Part 1
  • Center of Gravity Placement Part 2

  • Research
  • The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
  • Study: “G-Tox” Speeds Recovery
  • The Value of Chalk?
  • The Benefits of Active Recovery
  • Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance
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