Training Support Activities
Training support activities (TSA) could be viewed as the "secret" to optimal climbing performance, because these not-so-obvious areas play a vital role in maximizing your performance in each area of the climbing performance triad. Training support activities include, among other things, use of strategies for accelerating recovery, partaking in performance nutrition, and acting proactively to prevent and treat climbing injuries. TSA is all about being a climber 24/7...doing anything and everything to maximize your abilites while constantly striving to eliminate or unlearn habits that might be holding you back.
Bottom line: if you are serious about climbing performance, then you must be serious about TSA. Although it's impossible to say exactly how much of an edge these practices will give you, I estimate that the average climber can lower injury risk and enhance on-the-rock performance by 10 to 20 percent (maybe more!). Conversely, skipping or ignoring TSA means your performance will forever be hampered in a covert way you may never recognize.
Study the articles below and apply the strategies--knowledge is power only if you use it!
The Truth about Creatine for Climbers
There are dozens of sports supplements that claim to help build muscle and increase strength. While most are, in fact, worthless, creatine has been shown to produce increases in muscular strength in numerous well-executed studies. Based on this, creatine must be a good supplement for climbers. Right? Not so fast my high-ball sending, flash training friend! Read on...
Chalk: Is It Hurting Your Performance?
Do you think chalk is an absolutely necessary "tool" for climbers on hot, humid days? If so, you and I are in complete agreement. However, some British researches are convinced that chalk is not as indispensable as hundreds-of-thousands of climbers the world over have believed. The conclusion of their study was that chalk reduced the coefficient of friction (skin against rock surface) and, strangely, water did not! They suggest that "alternative methods for drying the fingers are preferable." If you don't believe me, read the study's Abstract (below).
Read on...
Keith McCallister crankin' at Pawtuckaway, NH. Courtesy of EricMcCallister.com
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