Testimonials & Feedback
Though I have forfeited quite a few days at the crags in order to
write my books and design training products (and get pumped testing
them on my home wall!), I find the volumes of positive feedback
from good folks around the world worthy compensation. It is gratifying
to know that thousands of climbers in over 50 countries are benefiting
from my work. Though, I can't reply to every email and training
question, I do try my best to either email you directly or post
a reply on the "Q & A" page. Click
here to ask Eric a question or just to say "hi!"
I would like to thank everyone who has purchased my books and written
to me from across the United States, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina,
Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Bahamas, Great Britian, Ireland, Germany,
France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Malta, Spain, Portugal,
Croatia, Greece, Israel, Hungary, Turkey, Norway, Denmark, Sweden,
Lithuania, Iceland, Scotland, Belgium, Czech Republic, Russia, Uzbekistan,
Poland, Romania, Ukraine, Netherlands, South Africa, Japan, China,
Singapore, Iran, India, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Philippines, Indonesia,
Korea, Thailand, New Zealand, and Australia.
Below is just a small selection of reader feedback supporting
my TFC "philosophy." These testimonials are NOT the usual
faire of full-time 5.14 "rock stars" telling you how much some "thing"
helped them climb hard--the fact is, these rare folks have a God-given
genetic gift, Herculean mental toughness, and 24/7 dedication to
push the limits to thank for their ability (not some book or product).
OK, so here are few letters/emails from some "regular folks" with
a passion for climbing AND an intense desire to climb harder. I
hope you'll find them as inspiring as I do!
Lauri Stricker bouldering in Colorado.
Courtesy of StewartGreen.com
Guido (Zurich, Switzerland):
I want to tell you that Training for Climbing is clearly
the best and most comprehensive book on climbing training methodology
I have ever read. In particular, the chapters on mental training and
skills/strategy training have inspired me and have given me extremely
valuable insights for my future workouts. Your explanations have also
led me to finally understand why parts of my previous training schedule
did not yield the desired results in the past. Thanks for such a great
work!
Carlos (California):
Eric, Just wanted to say thanks for writing Training for Climbing.
Since I started reading it and training, I have improved one letter
grade every two weeks. I am having a great time doing the strength
training exercises and just enjoying the process of climbing with
a different mentality.
Paul (Sydney,
Australia):
Hi Eric; I've just finished reading Training for Climbing--great
work! Over the last 14 years I have studied climbing and to date your
new book is by far the most accessible to "intermediate" climbers.
Keep up the fine work!
Colonel
George Bristol (Iraq and Afghanistan):
I own both Training for Climbing and Flash Training,
and it might warm your heart to know that the books accompanied
me to Iraq last year--some of the young Marines training with me
got to know your "Frenchies" and the like! Eric, your
easy-to-read style and obvious technical knowledge has finally penetrated
the rock hard dome of this Marine! You have a big fan in me. I will
tune into your website regularly and will undoubtedly gain from
your continued excellence. Thanks much and Semper Fidelis.
Stuart (Auburn,
AL):
Eric, I really enjoyed reading Training
For Climbing. It is a very well written book! Thanks for being
such an active part in continuing education for training.
Scott (Coatesville,
PA):
I read a quote from your training book and consequently bought it.
This book has changed my whole attitude in climbing and life due
to your mental training chapter. Just wanted to say thank you!
Evan (Blue
Mountains, Australia):
This is just a quick thank you for the massive improvements your
book has bought me in climbing. 14 months ago I started climbing,
and dislocated my left shoulder, pretty badly, within the first
month. Two physiotherapists told me there was no way I'd ever climb
again without dual shoulder reconstructions (my other shoulder was
dodgy too). A local gun climber, Christina Bedard turned me on to
your book, telling me she'd been using your techniques to overcome
the same injury. And so a year later and a lot of weight sessions
later I'm climbing hard and fitter than ever before. I've gone from
a fragile bumbly to climbing 20-22 (about 5.10b-c in your money),
bouldering V4 in just under 12 months and never been happier. My
shoulders feel incredible and my confidence in their stability grows
every day. Thank you again, and I hope the rock is good to you.
Sven (Zagreb,
Croatia):
I have your climbing book Training for Climbing, and I think
it is great!
Steph (Vancouver,
BC):
Hi Eric, I thought I'd send a quick note to let you know that your
program worked for me. I bought your book How To Climb 5.12
in the fall, completed one full ten-week cycle with a partner this
winter, and followed this with less formal endurance and HIT sessions
interspersed with many routes. Last week I red-pointed my first
12a at Chek near Squamish! Thanks!
Mona (Lunenburg,
MA):
Thanks for your book How to Climb 5.12. It has really made
a world of difference in so many ways, physically and mentally.
I am not an overly demonstrative person, but I can't stop raving
about and reading it. It's falling apart it's been so well used.
:-) Cheers!
Rob (Bangor,
Ireland):
Many thanks for the training tips Eric. Also I must pass on that the
H.I.T Strips are a fantastic training tool! Myself and brother have
been cycling on and off them for a while and have found them very
beneficial. Once again many thanks and keep on climbing!
Roberto (Quito, Ecuador):
Hi Eric;I read your book Training for Climbing. I think is
the best book in the field.
Brent (Atlanta, GA):
Just wanted to say how much I've learned from your two earlier books
(How To Climb 5.12 and Flash Training). In the past
2 months I've moved into the 5.12 realm, redpointing 4 different ones
(all on different rock types: steep/endurance, steep but bouldery,
sustained face, and bouldery face).
I think one of the most useful things that I learned from your
book was the progress pyramid in the back. I went through the 11's,
building a solid base on different types of routes. While I probably
could have rushed my progress into the 5.12 range by projecting
1 route, I think it would have been detrimental in the long run
as I would have lacked a foundation on which to build upon. Now
I need to purchase Training For Climbing and get even more serious
about training!
Ben (Vermont):
I bought your books, How to Climb 5.12 and Flash Training
after being inspired to start rock climbing. I read them cover
to cover and have since looked back on them innumerable time as references.
They were especially helpful to me in avoiding injury, diagnosing
injury and curing it, and getting stronger. The year I began climbing
and bought your books I managed to lead a 5.8.
That winter I joined a gym and started climbing there two or three
days a week. The next summer I began projecting routes at Rumney...first
a 12a, then a 12a/b, then a 12c, then a 12d, two 13as, a 13b/c,
and then a 13d. Some of these routes took me ten climbing days or
in one case even more to redpoint. The following winter I began
bouldering. I climbed three V10s. I did another couple 13a/b climbs,
worked a 13d unsuccessfully five days (I'll get it yet) and a couple
more 12ds. My big project, which took me 19 days of effort, was
a 5.14b. I tried it seven days in the spring and then finished it
in the fall, working other stuff over the summer. It was great fun
and I just sent it yesterday. I thank you for the advice your books
provided that kept me in the high country (away from plateaus) on
my journey to 5.14.
Dan (Dept of Microbiology, University of Western Australia):
I have been climbing for about 1 year and reached a plateau around
two months ago. At this time I was stuck in my local gym redpointing
australian grade 21 with the occasional onsight. This was really frustrating
me and made me consider quitting as I thought I couldnt get any better.
We have a fairly small climbing community here in Western Australia,
so its hard to find experienced climbers who will devote time to helping
others. It was around this time that I found your website and bought
your book How to climb 5.12. After following your training
advice for around one month (increasing finger and forearm strengh
by campusing and fingerboards and bouldering to hone my gripping actions)
my climbing skill as dramatically altered for the better. In my first
performance day at the gym after 1 month of training I was able to
onsight 2 australian grade 23 and am very close to redpointing my
first 24. I have also had success out doors, pulling down climbs of
grade 22/23 that were completely unworkable two months ago. A short
while ago these were fantasy climbs I could not have dreamed of achieving.
These results have really pumped me up and encouraged me to aim
for pulling down some really hard climbs. This would not have been
possible without the help of your books and website and I am eagerly
awaiting the arrival of Training for Climbing in our climbing
bookstore. Thank you for rekindling my passion for rockclimbing
and putting the unreachable within my reach.
Curtis (Nelson, BC, Canada):
I just wanted thank you for all the great information supplied in
your How to Climb 5.12 book. I read it last winter and followed
many of your training tips. I've been climbing off and on for about
6 or 7 years, but I've never really been more than a 5.10 climber.
By this time last year my hardest redpoint was 5.11a. Anyway, a few
months ago I started your HIT training and 2 weeks ago I sent a 5.12b
on my 4th try. I can't wait to read your next book!
Nik (Ukraine):
I read your books How To Climb 5.12 and Flash Training
in January `02 and I have progressed from climbing 5.10a to onsighting
5.11a and redpointing 11d in under six months! YES, your books work,
and YES, belief gives birth to reality!! Thank you for sharing your
knowledge with us!
Joel (Cedar City, UT):
I very much enjoyed your book How To Climb 5.12 and have culled
many useful techniques and tips from it. Using visualization and some
of your training advice, I have gone from a sloppy 5.9/5.10 climber
to onsighting up to 10d and redpointing up 11b! Thanks a bunch!
Thomas (New Zealand):
Your book is awesome! Shortly after I got your book I started resting
way more and doing the 4-3-2-1 training program. I saw rapid improvement
and two months later I done a 5.11d in the gym and yesterday (7th
April) I sent a 5.12a on my 7th atempt! Thanks heaps for the advice.
Omar (London, UK):
I think that your approach to the subject is a fantastic one indeed.
Whilst reading through the article on your Mental Wings strategies,
I realized that I have this information circling me all day everyday
but there was always something missing. Now I have realized that it
sometimes takes the efforts of people like yourself to display them
in order for us to complete our journeys. Many thanks!
Tim (U.K.):
You will be pleased to know that your book, Flash Training,
along with the current HIT training article on the Net have encouraged
me (and a few friends) to try and gain a little more strength in sensible
ways. Some of the pathways spoken of show their usefulness at different
times. It is nice to see people encouraging climbing for fun, not
grades.
Scott (WA):
Subject: Kudos from an ex. science guy. I just wanted to pop an email
over to you because everything of yours that I've seen is well researched,
and follows sound pricinples. Your applications to the world of climbing
has been inspirational to me since I found myself having a hard time
applying what I had learned in school studying Exercise Science, and
as a scholrshiped NCAA Div. 1 Decathlete, to my new passion and pass
time. Keep up the good work!
Yann (Quebec):
Your book how to climb 5.12 gave me a burst of enthusiasm when I read
it 1 year ago. I am a trad kind of climber who likes to boulder sometimes,
sport climb and aid and rope solo. I lead 5.10+s trad, and onsighted
11b sport. Now I just climbed successfully this V4 problem I?ve always
tried climbing when passing by at the Gunks. (on the boulder on carriage
road not far from ?high exposure?) I was totally surprised and extatic!
Then I did it again with relative ease. It was so good to see the
progress I made in climbing! I had to tell you. Thank you for all
your enthusiasm, good books and all.
Marcel (Switzerland):
I bought How To Climb 5.12 about 18 months ago when I was only
climbing French 6a (5.10b). This Sunday I redpointed "Pulf", my first
7a+/5.12a, at a crag named Drapel in Switzerland. Thank You!
Alex (New Hampshire):
I've been climbing seriously for about a year now and I read How
to climb 5.12 last spring when my hardest lead was a 10a. After
a winter in the gym, using some of your training tips, my first day
out for the spring, three weeks ago, saw me redpoint Things as They
Are Now (12a, Rumney, NH), my first 5.12, on my 3rd try. The stuff
in the book really helped me out and gave me a lot of confidence.
Thanks.
Ivan (Croatia):
I recently purchased your book How To Climb 5.12. I must say
the book is the best ever! I can't wait to read Flash Training.
Jed (Salt Lake City):
I started climbing 6 years ago and have never had a passion for a
sport like I do for climbing. After running a marathon a few years
ago my kids asked me what I was going to do next--I said "I was going
to climb a 5.12 by my 40th birthday." My hardest redpoint to date
was 5.11a. My wife bought me your book How To Climb 5.12 and
I read it a few times. I made some adjustments to my home wall, begin
some HIT workouts and started using your 4-3-2-1 training schedule.
In a few months I redpointed 5.11d, but my birthday was not far off.
I started working a route in Big Cottonwood Canyon called "Big in
Japan" (5.12b). I drew a topo and stated visualizing my ascent. After
working the route on five different days, I could do it with just
one fall. I rested two days and took my whole family (Zach 16, Malissa
15, Jackson 9, and Kaitlynn 9 mo.) to watch the old man celebrate
his big day. After a few warm-up routes, my wife Lynne gave me a belay--I
fell at the crux. After a 45-minute rest, I nailed it! Thanks so much
for your great book. It assisted me in achieving a goal that I'll
even admit seemed a little too far out there. Most of all, my kids
think it's way rad old dad did a 5.12 on his 40th birthday. I'm not
stopping there, of course!
Justin (Australia):
Finally I have found someone who is willing to offer very detail information
on training for climbing. In Australia, it's very "closed shop" on
how to train...people either don't know or don't want to share the
goods on how to climb harder. Well, I'm glad we have the Internet--thanks
for your website and the books. Keep up the good work.
Eric (Virginia):
I just finished reading your book. There is something to be said about
getting to the point--which you do very well--I read you book in half
the time it took to read the "other training book" I own, and yours
contains much more usable and practical information. Personally, the
section on mental training hit home. Physically, 5.12 is not that
hard of a grade for me, but mentally it requires a Herculean effort.
I think you did a great job, and I recommend the book to others.
Hiroyasu (Japan):
Thank you, Mr. Horst for helping me achieve my first 5.12a/7a+ just
a few days ago...thanks to your influence through the innovative book,
How To Climb 5.12!
Matt (Kentucky):
I have read your book How To Climb 5.12 and I found it very
useful. I've been climbing for about five years and am making decent
progress... I'm now breaking into 5.12 sport and 5.10 trad. Thank
you.
Justin & Kristen (Missouri):
This message is long overdue. My wife and I contacted you about 6
months ago after we puchased your HIT strip training system. Needless
to say, we have enjoyed them tremendously...or should I say we enjoyed
the results! First a little history: Kristen and I started climbing
March 23, 2000, and our first climb was a 5.6 75-foot toprope. I'll
never forget the burn I got on that...forearms screaming, I was proud
that both of us made it to the top without falling off. Two months
later I pumped out my first 5.10, then it was back to easier stuff
to learn to lead. Two months later I lead my first trad 5.10! My wife
followed right behind me and completed the same climbs shortly there
after. Anyway, to make a long story short, after 10 months of climbing
I redpointed a 5.12b/c, and Kristen pumped out an 5.11d! We entered
our first competition a couple weeks ago--Kristen came in 3rd place
Women, and I won overall. We're saying all this to thank you and let
you know that there are a lot more people interested in the HIT strips
now! Of course, everyone at the gym now asks me what I do to workout.
Thanks for everything, and congrats on the latest member of your family.
Matthew:
I recently purchased your book How To Climb 5.12. It is an
outstanding reference to anyone who wants to get better quick. The
first time I tried some of the ideas in your book I noticed an improvement.
Your book helped me onsight my hardest climb to date, a 5.11d. Thank
you!
Andre:
What a great book you write! Both Flash Training and How
To Climb 5.12 pointed out many things I was thinking about but
never could put into words. Your HIT workout definitely gave me much
more strength--I think it's a really important development for training
for climbing. Thank you very much for you great work for climbing,
Eric!
Paul (Colorado):
The main reason I'm writing is to thank you for, I think, saving my
climbing career. I am 41 and have been training a long time, but naggin
elbow tendonitis has always followed me. To make a long story short,
your emphasis on reverse wrist curls has had a huge impact on my training
schedule and has all but eliminated my elbow pain. I had read your
suggestions many times, but only tried it as a last ditch effort.
My first set felt like a healing balm was being applied. I was amazed!
I hope to shortly be able to top my best efforts (thanks to your articles
and books I have onsight 5.12b). If you are ever in Fort Collins,
I owe you a beer.
David (Australia):
Thank you for your two books. They have greatly improved my climbing
ability and motivation. I have increased my grades from mid teens
(5.8/5.9) to my recent redpoint of a 25 (5.11d/5/12a). The best parts
of both books was the mental training chapters. Your visualization
and focus exercises are a regular part of my routine, to the dismay
of most of my fellow climbers--they don't like me being overly optimistic!
Once again thanks, my climbing ability owes you.
Alistair (England):
I am writing to let you know that having studied How To Climb 5.12,
I am impressed with the quality on your advice and your willingness
to debunk myths about what makes climbers stronger. I look forward
to onsighting my first 7a+ at the end of my next training cycle!
Ross (Canada):
Recently I bought your book Flash Training. Congratulations
on a really great piece of work! It is excellent. As a 50 year old
weekend warrior, I wish I was 21 again so I could hang out at the
crags all over again knowing what I now know! Well, I am attempting
to get to Everest next year to continue my Seven Summits project...
Thanks for your help!
David (New Zealand):
Just a quick one. I loved your book How To Climb 5.12 and I
have persuaded my local gym to build a special bouldering wall just
for your HIT Workouts (and the HIT Strips). Thanks from New Zealand!
Deb:
I have read both your books and they are great. I'm well on my way
to climbing 5.12 and I'm stronger than ever. The sections on finger
pulley injuries helped me identify a partial tendon tear in my forearm.
I stopped climbing right away and it probably saved me a trip to the
OR. Thanks!
Riggz (Philippines):
Two years ago I got a hold of your first book Flash Training and
I am greatly impressed by the straight-from-the-can instructions on
training for climbing. In my first year climbing, a friend called
me mediocre--so I wanted to eat him alive in the competitions. Your
book is now my second bible and I employ all your exercises like lock-offs,
frenchies, uneven grip pull-ups and, my favorite, heavy finger rolls.
After doing these for one month, to my amazement, I did a one-arm
dyno on a dinky sloper and stuck it! In this year's national competition
I kicked butt, and left many strong climbers behind, including my
mate who had told me I was mediocre. (He ended up eliminated and spent
the night in a local bar.) I just got a copy of How To Climb 5.12
and I find it equally outstanding--it's now my third bible! I really
thank you for the superb climbing training instructions in your books.
MABUHAY! (That means, "long live"!)
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