* THE BEST TRAINING IS... * SELF-ASSESSMENT * THE "SAID" PRINCIPLE * ABOUT CONTACT STRENGTH * MENTAL WINGS STRATEGIES

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Training Technique & Tactics

Becoming proficient (or excellent) at any sport requires focused practice of new skills and tactical weaknesses. Consider common skill practice regimens in other sports--basketball players practice shooting from all over the court; football teams practice key plays over and over, and golfers hit hundreds of balls at the range. All these forms of practice are performed outside of competition and in preparation for peak performance on game day. Yet for most climbers, everyday on the rocks (or in the gym) is "game day" as they focused their efforts on redpointing, on-sighting, or sending high-end boulder problems.

In this section you will learn how to elevate your climbing through regular practice of technique and climbing tactics. You will learn what's involved in acquiring a new climbing skill or move, and how the brain creates software called "schema" to execute the move (in the future) and to make approximate solutions, on the fly, to unknown moves. Applying these skill-training strategies while climbing both indoors and outside will reveal a more efficient, more intuitive style of moving over stone. In the end, you will be climbing harder but with less effort--just like the pros do who, regardless of the sport, always make it peak performance look easy!


Effective Gym Training Strategies
When I began climbing over 25 years ago, the climbing season ended with the hounds of winter, and the only "training for climbing" consisted of pull-ups, running, and some free-weight exercises. Fortunately, indoor walls have made climbing a year-round activity, allowing enthusiasts to improve--not regress--in strength and ability during the winter season. (The old method of just doing pull-ups, running, and free weights is an ineffective training strategy for climbers, so don't travel down that road.) Read on...

Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?
It's an old adage that "climbing is the best training for climbing," and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let's examine this precept and determine, once and for all, if it is valid. Read on...

The Importance of Practice Days vs. Performance Days
The difference between practice days and performance days lies in the desired outcome. Practice days are for maximal improvement of climbing skills with little concern about performance outcome. Performance days are simply about rad redpoints and "V-hard" sends with no focus on learning or practicing specific climbing skills. Read on...

Andrea Pesca bouldering at Morrison, CO. Courtesy of StewartGreen.com

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